Visited late April 2026, one editor anonymous, one known to the chef from prior unrelated work — we note this and weight the experience accordingly. Bill paid in full.
A dessert-only tasting menu is, in theory, a stunt. Room4Dessert has spent ten years arguing it isn’t, and on a good night it almost wins. The menu is nine courses, plated and paced like a savoury kitchen would handle them, with the palate cleansers doing real structural work.
What we ate
The opening was a chilled course of cucumber, white chocolate, and dill — a dish that exists to recalibrate what you think dessert can be. It worked. The second course (a savoury-leaning coconut and pandan custard with crisp shallot) was the strongest of the evening: a dish we have thought about since.
The middle of the menu sags. Two courses in a row leaned heavily on chocolate; the second one, ambitious as it was, repeated the first one’s argument. The kitchen could lose a course here and would lose nothing.
The closing courses recovered the meal. A frozen tamarind sorbet with palm sugar and salt; a final petit four of caramelised banana and burnt rum. The pacing of the last three plates was precise.
The room
The garden setting is the real draw — open-air, candle-lit, slightly humid in a way that is part of the experience. Service is informal and chatty in the way Will Goldfarb’s restaurants are always informal and chatty; whether that suits you is a temperament question.
In short
Recommended for dessert-curious diners and for anyone who wants to see what a kitchen does when given an unusual brief. Not essential, but rewarding. Book one week ahead; the garden tables are worth requesting.
